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Date: 1/20/03 2:47 PM
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We got hit by the storm in the middle of a technical pitch. I told Xaver to head back for the portaledges while I fixed the rope above. In the hour or so it took me to get things organized, the ropes had all turned to ice, and I had trouble getting back to our camp, which required rappeling below camp, as the route traversed here. After 20 minutes of screaming in the wind, Xaver finally heard and looked out of the ledge and was able to help me back up (my worn out Clog ascenders didn't grip on ice).